Hiroshima: City of Memories

            I wasn’t too confident in the choice of my next destination. I knew Hiroshima was where we dropped the Atomic Bomb at the end of WWII so I thought it would be important to visit. I didn’t know if I would need as much time as I scheduled there. I was worried that I was going to get bored. I was so wrong. I made so many great memories in this city. I loved my time here.

            I was staying in a J-Hoppers hostel, which is the same brand as the hostel I stayed at in Kyoto. I love everything about J-hoppers. They are always so clean, have the friendliest staff, and are always located in good places in the city.

            Hiroshima is a relatively small city compared to Osaka and Tokyo. The best way to get around is to take a tram. It was a fun experience and easily got me to the hostel. After unpacking I had some energy in me so I decided to go explore. A few blocks away from the hostel was the site where the bomb was dropped.

Peace Memorial Park

            Located at ground zero is Peace Memorial Park. The park is very well designed and huge. Throughout the park are different monuments honoring different people and advocating peace. I went inside the National Peace Memorial Hall. It was quiet and I was one of the very few inside. As you walked down a spiral walkway the walls got higher. It made you feel more and more small. At the bottom was a circular room. As you turned around you could see a panorama of all the buildings that were in the area before the bomb dropped.

Upstairs they had a book of stories about the aftermath of the bomb. I spent a lot of time reading about a school that was turned into an orphanage. They had accounts of children coming and not having clothes or food. Sometimes parents would show up to claim a child, but most were dead. They went to the neighborhoods of the children and they would find their parents’ bones in the remains of their house. The people that ran the school needed to scrounge for food. Most children were malnutritioned.

By the A-Bomb Dome

            Visiting and learning more about the effect of the bomb was a sad, but good experience. It was a moment for me to reflect on the value of life. After the bomb hit the area was flattened and became nothing; today the city is vibrant and so alive. I think this says something about the people. Their ability to rebuild shows hope. The last thing I did at the park was visit the A-bomb Dome. This building was located right by ground zero. Although much of the building was ruined, it remained standing.

The day really touched me emotionally. I decided to unwind by going to the hostel lounge to work on my blog post about Osaka. I didn’t get very far when a group of guys came down to the lounge. They were having a few drinks and wanted to play cards. I had my deck of cards in my purse so I offered it to them on the terms that I would be allowed to play as well.

The guys were great. They were from different parts of the world and had met along the way. They were from New Zealand, Scotland, Australia, and a few places in the U.S. Some were traveling because they just finished their undergraduates, others were traveling on vacation.

We were starting to get loud so we decided to go out and find a bar. The only problem was that it was a Sunday. We eventually found a place but didn’t stay long. The group was hilarious and accepting. By the end of the night they had nicknamed me Sarah Palin because of the way I talked.

When we arrived back to the hostel we decided to go to the roof. We listened to music and talked. I learned so much about these people and had a really great time. We were forced to go to bed when the owner of the hostel came upstairs and told us we weren’t supposed to be on the roof at this hour. Luckily he wasn’t too upset.

Itsukushima Shrine

Deer Everywhere!

The next day I took a ferry to Miyajima Island. The Island is a World Heritage site that is especially known for Itsukushima Shrine. It is known as the “floating shrine” because when the tide is high the ocean surrounds it. When the tide is low you are able to walk under the shrine and get good luck. I was able to see the shrine when the water was high and walk under it when it was low. The city is also known for the tame deer. Walking around the city are all sorts of little deer that aren't afraid of people.

The trail up Mt Misen

On the island there is Mt. Misen, the sacred mountain. It is the tallest mountain on the island and gods are believed to reside there. To get to the top of the mountain you are able to ride a ropeway. Due to the fact that they were building an observatory on top of the mountain, the ropeway was closed. The only way to get to the top was to climb. I took the trail and was surprised at what I found. The rock steps were uneven and tall. As you climbed you passed small shrines. The trail cut through the primeval forest that has been kept intact to its fullest. A waterfall runs next to the path. It is beautiful and serene. As you climb you are left with your thought and with the peaceful nature surrounding you.

Whew! At the top

It was a gorgeous day with the sun out which made climbing even better. I didn’t realize how long it would take to get to the top. I sweat like crazy. Once I made it to the top it was so worth it. The peak was made of rock and you could look out across the island. On my trip there were moments when I would round a corner and see the scenery and let out a gasp because it was so beautiful. When I made it to the top I celebrated and threw my fist into the air as though I was in some cheesy movie. I wanted to yell, “I did it! I climbed the mountain!” I felt so accomplished. It was one of the greatest moments I have had in Japan so far.

Kintai Bridge

The next day I woke up and found that my friends had left. This put me in a sad mood all day. I took the train to Iwakuni city nearby. This area is famous for the Kintai Bridge. It is made out of five arches. On the other side of the bridge is Kikko Park. The area used to belong to the Kikkawa Clan. Today park is full of gardens. There is a garden of Irises and a garden of Peonies. You can ride a ropeway to the top of a hill there where Ikakuni Castle is located. In the park there is also a shrine, museum, and rare white snakes. It was a relaxing trip.

Hiroshima and the surrounding area was just what I needed after Osaka. I was able to relax, be thoughtful, be a little zen, and meet some great people. I will always have such wonderful memories of my time here. 

Osaka: big city life

            Leaving Kyoto was a gloomy experience. The rainy weather only added to the melancholy. After a short train ride Osaka came into view. The city looked looming and dark even though it was midday. This was so different from my cute little Kyoto.

Arriving at the station

            Overwhelmed by my surroundings, I decided to take a taxi. It was one expensive cab but I don’t regret taking it. The driver looked at the address and then looked worried. As he started driving he tried to make small talk but he only knew a tiny amount of English. We arrived at the hostel and as I was paying him he looked right at me and said, “Don’t go out at night!” I didn’t understand him at first but as he helped me with my bags he kept repeating the phrase.

            Later I took a walk around the neighborhood and I understood why the taxi driver had warned me. Japanese neighborhoods are usually very clean. This one had trash lying around and a few stray cats. I walked by an overpass and was surprised to see about 50 homeless men under it. The people I walked past on the street were usually older men that smelled like beer or sweat. There were a few younger guys that I would pass on the street, but they had dyed hair (which is abnormal in Japanese society) and just looked menacing in general.

Preschoolers on a field trip

Crab

            My hostel was right by a metro station so I spent most my time in other neighborhoods. I started my day by heading to Kaiyukan, which is the Osaka Aquarium. I was surprised as I was walking in to be surrounded by a bunch of 5 year-olds in matching uniforms and yellow hats. They were preschoolers on a field trip, and they were a rowdy bunch. They ran around in circles, knocked on the glass, and teased each other. The aquarium was really cool though, and I was able to see many of the same fish that I saw when I was snorkeling. I also arrived right during the dolphins’ feeding time. I got to watch them do tricks to get food.

At Osaka Castle

            After the aquarium I headed to Osaka Castle. These castle grounds were huge. I liked them because the area was full of trees and had good paths to walk. The castle was impressive, very tall. The roofs were shaded a light teal blue color that went well with the gold accents. The castle was built for the permanent rule of Japan but in 1615 after the Summer War the control was taken. In 1931 the castle was used by the army; and in World War II the castle was damaged. It is now restored and the inside of the castle has been turned into a museum.

Umeda Sky Building

On my way up

            The next stop on my very busy trip was the Umeda Sky Building. It was built in 1993 and is two skyscrapers that are connected in the middle. This building is also called the floating garden. The part that connects the two buildings functions as an observatory. This was a beautiful place to relax and look over the city. I found a comfy spot and spent over two hours looking, thinking, and writing. It was calming.

            The night was young and I was not ready to head back to the hostel. As a solo traveler it can get lonely sometimes. I wanted to meet people but I wanted to do it in a safe environment. The hostel I stayed at in Kyoto had another of the same brand in Osaka. They were hosting an international night. It was a chance for people to meet at the hostel, have a drink, and get to know one another. I stopped by for an hour and was able to talk to some great people from around the world.

            The next day I was definitely starting to lose my steam. The big city was getting to me. I tried to plan a less busy and more relaxing day. I started by going to the Shitennoji Temple. It is the oldest temple in Japan. I was surprised to find a flea market there. They were selling all sorts of interesting stuff and I even bought some really good dried fruit.

Flea market at the Shitennoji Temple

The stable pagoda

            While viewing the temple I ran into an old man. He was 65 or 70 years old and he knew English. He talked to me for a long time about the temple. He told me that when there was an earthquake the pagoda stayed standing because of the flexibility of the pole in the center. When the man was done telling me all about the area he asked if he could have a picture with me. His wife laughed and took one. It was cute.

            To further my relaxing day I decided to go to an Onsen. An Onsen is a Japanese public bath. This one was called SpaWorld. You paid a flat fee to get in and then if you wanted a service (like a massage, facial, etc) you would add onto it. There was a floor for females and a floor for men. The baths were all sorts of different themes. The current theme for the women was Asia. The first bath you saw when you walked in was the Islam bath. It was modeled to look like the inside courtyard of a mosque. They also had a Persia bath room that included a footbath. The baths were different sizes and temperatures. They also had a “doctor spa”. These were three different baths infused with different elements. One had a highly concentrated amount of oxygen, which eases fatigue. The next was carbonic which is good for blood flow, and the last one had hydrogen, which is good for your skin.

            I like Onsens a lot. You go in the public bath naked which at first is a little intimidating. You try to awkwardly cover yourself up. Eventually you realize that no one cares about what you look like. They are all enjoying the space and being confident about their bodies. It makes you realize that no matter the shape or size, everyone is beautiful.

            In all, I’m glad I visited Osaka, but in the end I was very ready to move on to the next city. I’m not sure if the big city life is for me. I enjoyed the city a lot more than I thought I would. 

Kyoto: my wonderful disaster of a visit

            Narita airport was becoming just like Barajas was in Spain, an airport that I was all too familiar with. This was my fifth time in the airport in the past month. I feel like the people in immigration and security should know me by name by now. Instead of leaving out of the usual doors in terminal one, I made my way downstairs to the train station.

            I ordered a Japan Rail Pass online and was hoping that what I ordered was legit. I took my voucher to the exchange area and was successfully given a pass! I was exhausted, nervous, gross and sweaty and the man behind the desk could definitely tell. He told me to not worry, reserved some seats on the train for me, and gave me very specific directions on how to get there.

            I lugged my giant travel backpack to the train and got on. Once on the train I forgot about all my worries, all my exhaustion, and all my nastiness. My eyes lit up as we sped past every rice paddy and small town. The man was nice enough to reserve me window seats for all my rides. After 2 hours in the train I had to switch to a different one but that was easy enough. I rode the second train for three hours before I made it to Kyoto. The ride was amazing. One minute the train was speeding past the ocean and the next minute it was cutting through hills and mountains. Kyoto looked so cute in between all the hills.

            Once arriving at Kyoto station I looked at my directions and frowned. I was so tired and my bags were so heavy and inconvenient. Why did I think it was a good idea to carry two backpacks? I only have one back. I did something most skilled travelers usually refuse to do, I waved a taxi. I gave him my address and got comfy. Less than five minutes later, we were there. I was embarrassed; the hostel was only a few blocks away from the station. It would’ve taken me less than 10 minutes to walk there. Nevertheless, my fee was small and I didn’t have to carry my heavy bags or get lost.

            The first night I rested and the second day I decided to do some site seeing. I had a really great map that had all the attractions on it. Next to each site was the hours it was open and how much it would cost to enter. It looked simple enough to get around and the map made the city look small. I set off walking.

Castle Grounds

            The first place I visited was Nijo Castle. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site so I thought it would be worth seeing. It took way longer to get there than I thought. I walked for a few hours before I got there. I also wasn’t used to the heat and humidity. In the Philippines it was humid but we got to places by sitting in an air-conditioned car.

            I forgot about how warm I was when I arrived at the castle. Similar to the palace that I saw in Tokyo; there was an outer and inner moat here. The outer moat surrounded the castle grounds; the inner moat surrounded just the castle in the middle. I wasn’t able to see the castle in the middle because it burned down a long time ago. Currently there is a new structure there but it is not the original. What I saw was the Ninomaru Palace, which is located on the outer grounds. The architecture on the outside was typical of this time period. It had the sloping roof and the simple structure.

Ninomaru Palace at Nijo Castle

            I was able to go inside the palace. First you had to take your shoes off outside. No photography was allowed so sorry for lack of pictures. The palace had many linked sections. The architecture was in shoin-zukuri style, which is very simple but elegant. There are 33 separate rooms that all have tatami mats. Tatami mats are the traditional Japanese straw flooring. The pathways that linked the rooms were made of wood. As you walked the floor chirped. This was called a Nightingale floor. It chirped like a bird when someone walked on it so the warriors were able to hear if someone was sneaking up on them.

The Garden

            The rooms were very plain. Most of them were empty. This was because people who used the rooms would sit on the mats on the floors. Also the screens that divided the rooms were either blank or had a painting on them. The paintings were not originally there; they were done by different artists throughout time. Afterwards I walked around the gardens in the castle grounds and climbed one of the watchtowers on the corner.

By the Golden Pavilion

            My legs hurt and I was tired but it was too early to go back to the hostel. I decided to press on and head to Kinkaku, otherwise known as the Golden Pavilion. The Golden Pavilion is a Buddhist hall that houses relics of the Buddha. Kinkaku is especially famous for its looks. It is covered in gold foil and has a golden phoenix on top. Each level of the structure is in a different style. The bottom level is shinden style of the 11^th century imperial aristocracy, the second level is buke style of the warrior aristocracy, and the top is Chinese zenshu-butsuden style. The other interesting thing about Kinkaku is that it is located in the middle of a pond. It almost looks like it is floating there.

            I was really happy with what I saw. Less than a mile away from Kinkaku was the Ryoanji Temple, which I really wanted to see. It was supposed to be full of really spectacular rock gardens. I started walking in that direction but my feet protested. They were absolutely aching. I tried to think back to how many hours it took me to walk here but I couldn’t recall. I decided that it would be best for me to start walking back.

            I was ridiculous on the way back. I walked like an old lady because of how sore my feet were. I considered hopping on one of the buses that drove by but I was unfamiliar with the routes and feeling too pathetic to ask. I stopped to rest at a coffee shop on the way back but it didn’t help all that much. Eventually I got back to the hostel, peeled of my shoes and laughed. The bottoms of my feet were bruised and I had two huge blisters on the bottoms of my heels.

            I had big plans for the next day. I was determined to be smarter with my decisions! The hostel rented bikes for super cheap. I grabbed a bike key and was making my way out the door when I noticed a whiteboard by the main desk. It showed a drawing of an umbrella and said 90% chance of rain. I wasn’t going to let this ruin my ambitious day so I grabbed an umbrella on my way out.

            Having a bike was great! I was able to get around so much quicker and I didn’t have to further hurt my feet. The only problem with a bike is that it’s much easier to get lost. When walking I would usually miss my street by a block or two. When riding a bike I would miss my streets by five blocks or more because I would be pedaling so fast that I would wiz by.

Myohoin Temple?

            I set off to see Jishu-jinja shrine. I biked quickly and in no time I was there! I parked my bike and climbed up tons of steps. This looked promising. When I made it to the top I was surprised at how small it was. I asked one of the ladies if I had to pay the entrance fee and she said it was free. This confused me because my map said it cost 300 yen. I rested here, saw the shrine and left even more confused than before. Looking back on this moment, I had taken a wrong turn on my bike and had arrived at Myohoin Temple; or at least I think that is what it was. I’m really not 100% sure.

            The sky was cloudy, but it didn’t look bad so I decided to keep going. I really wanted to see Ryoanji Temple where the rock garden was. It was on the complete opposite side of my map but I heard it was worth it. I made a plan to go there first and then on my way back to the hostel hit the closer things. The directions were easy; just go straight until I hit Kitaoji-dori on the other side of the map.

            I was really enjoying my bike. It was a bit too tall for me so I had trouble stopping at crosswalks. I also had trouble dodging people in the busy parts of the city. I don’t understand why people wouldn’t scoot over a little bit. Some people would walk in a line so I had no way to pass. I suppose this is similar to how people walk in the city in the U.S.

            I biked for hours and knew I must have been getting close. This should’ve been the same path I walked yesterday, so why didn’t anything look familiar? I had gone way too far. I ended up by one of the universities. As I was trying to figure out where I went wrong it started to sprinkle. I decided to have some late lunch in a sandwich shop and wait for it to stop.

            It didn’t really slow down so I decided that it was only sprinkling and I would continue on anyways. I biked a few more blocks and out of nowhere it began to downpour. In Japan lots of people hold their umbrellas while they ride their bikes. It looks easy enough, but I quickly realized I was lacking in coordination. If I held the umbrella above my head it was harder for me to steer my bike. I was doing alright but then I had to stop at a crosswalk. This was already difficult because the bike was much too big. I had to bail from the bike and try to not hit people with the umbrella. The wind got crazy and blew my umbrella inside out so I took refuge in a Starbucks.

            I thought I would wait until the rain slowed down a bit. It couldn’t last forever. Boy was I wrong, I sat in Starbucks for two hours and watched the rain pour just as hard all the while. It looked like it was going to stay like this all night. I finally said, “screw it” and got back on my bike and headed back. During my two-hour bike ride the rain didn’t let up once. It stayed just as strong the whole while. I wanted to curse and throw a tantrum and be mad at the rain but I couldn’t; the situation was just too ridiculous that I had to laugh. At least in Japan the rain is warm.

            It was still raining the next day, but at least it had calmed down a bit. I really wasn’t ready to leave Kyoto. I was just starting to become familiar with the city and still had so much that I wanted to see. The city was wonderful because between all the big buildings were little shrines or small temples or gardens. There was so much hidden beauty. I considered extending my stay but I had already booked a place in Osaka.

Lots of things were holding me back from leaving but the worst was my giant traveler’s backpack. I could hardly carry the thing and it was horrible to have to hold my other backpack in the front. I looked so ridiculous. Realization hit that I was pretty immobile with the thing. It made travelling exhausting and not fun at all. Nearby was a suitcase store where I found a cheap duffle style suitcase with wheels. The stuff from my travel pack easily fit inside and it was so easy to carry around. I left my travel pack in the closet that said, “Free to a good home.”

My time in Kyoto can only be described as a wonderful disaster. I feel like my time there is not completed and if I get a chance I would love to go back. My hostel was great, the city was inviting, and there was so much to see.