Broke in Tokyo and Starting Camp

For all of you that were worried about me getting lost on my solo travel adventures, you can now take a deep breath. After talking to one of the USA Summer Camp directors I was able to meet up with him at Narita Airport.

            My last stop on my solo travels was Tokyo. At that point I was pretty much broke. It didn’t worry me. Tokyo is one of those places where you can either live like a king and spend a bunch of money or you can live like a pauper. I was definitely living like a pauper. I planned out my day so my breakfast and lunch were one in the same; cutting down the amount I ate to two meals a day. I mostly ate sandwiches and onigiri (rice balls). They were cheap and would fill you up for awhile.

Sky Tree

            My hostel was located in Asakusa. It was right on the river and across from Sky Tree, which is a big observation tower in Tokyo. The hostel had roof access so at night it was nice to sit on the roof and look at the lights on the tower and the boats pass by on the river.

            The first night at the hostel they were hosting a pizza party. I was excited at the chance to have some free food and meet some people. I met a group from Australia, two British guys, and an American. After the pizza was gone we went to a different neighborhood in Tokyo to have some fun. The only problem was the trains stopped at half past midnight so we would have to wait until the trains started again at 5am to get home. Our night ended after hanging out and chatting on a rooftop overlooking the city while we tried not to fall asleep.

Sensoji Temple

            I spent a lot of my time relaxing. I had already seen a big portion of Tokyo so I didn’t feel the need to rush around. Much of my day was spent reading in the park by the river, catching up on laundry, and taking walks. The time went by quickly. I never thought I was one for big cities but Tokyo is a place that I really enjoy. There really is something for everyone there. There are parks to hangout in if you need a little green time. There are tons of people to meet, things to do, and best of all, food to eat.

            When my relaxation time had ended I went to meet up with the director of the summer camp. I had exactly enough money left to pay for my train/metro tickets to the airport but afterwards I would be broke. This made me nervous because if I took the wrong train or bought the wrong ticket I wouldn’t have enough money to buy a new one. Luckily I made it there without a problem and found the director. The summer camp was going to reimburse me for the plane ticket I bought to get to Japan. This made me happy because I would have money again.

            The first night we were at a hotel. I got to see all the different people that would be counselors. The counselors are called AC’s (American Counselor). We were split into teams. Each team would work together at different camps. I was on team six which was one of the smaller teams.

Mt. Fuji

            Next we went to a camp in Gotenba for training. It is right by Mt. Fuji. When the clouds aren’t in the way you can see the mountain towering over the main square. Gotenba was just like any typical camp. We slept on cots, ate food in a mess hall, and the baths were public. There was one building that was full of classrooms that could be used. This was where our orientation would occur.

The Facility filled with Classrooms

            Our team had the shortest amount of orientation time. We had two days. During this time we made signs and props, learned camp songs and games, and tried to understand what running a camp would be like. We spent hours in a room working on making stuff for the coming camps. It was a lot to take in all at once. No one really knew what we were getting into.

Fukuoka: Waiting for Buses that Never Came

The saddest part about traveling is constantly having to say goodbye. As content as you are you know you must move forward and continue the journey. I had seen most of what Hiroshima had to offer and loved it, but it was time for me to go to Fukuoka. It was goodbye to the people I met and the monuments that brought me tranquility.

            I arrived in Fukuoka with intense sadness. My relationship had ended, I didn’t get a chance to properly say goodbye to the friends I had met, and I missed the comfort and simplicity of Hiroshima. After I arrived I was surprised to find that my hostel in Fukuoka was brand new, I ran into a guy that I had met in Osaka, and two girls from my dorm invited me to go to the bar with them. By the way I was being welcomed I should’ve been having a splendid time. Instead of joining them, I just wanted to sit in sadness and perceived “loneliness.” Looking back the moment was laughable. But in the end I am glad that I gave myself one day to be sad. By allowing myself this it helped me move forward and forget about it the days after.

            I would like to think of myself as a skilled traveler. I can figure out a metro map in minutes, I plan good site seeing days, and when lost I am not afraid to use my resources. Fukuoka threw me for a loop. I was completely and frustratingly lost. The city is an awkward size. It’s too big to make bikes useful but too small for a decent metro (it has one but it’s small and doesn’t go many places). The best way to get around is by bus.

            I have never liked or trusted city buses. Bus maps were hard for me to read, I never know when to get off, and the drivers are always unwelcoming. It also stressed me out that I might have been waiting at the correct stop but three different numbered buses with different routes would stop there. As I spent more time there I figured out how the bus system worked but was still helpless because everything was written in Japanese Kanji (symbols). Even if I knew the name of my stop I couldn’t read it on the map.

            What helped me get around was that in more popular tourist areas (Hakata Station, Tenjin shopping area, etc.) the bus stops would be bigger and have the destination written on them in English. This was still misleading because more than one bus would stop at the bus stop and even though both went to Hakata Station, one went directly there while the other would end there after hitting 20 other stops first.

            After my day of lamentation I decided to change my mood around and have a busy day. I asked the desk worker where I should go and she circled some places on my map. I asked her about the buses and she gave me some very specific directions on which bus to take for my first destination.

Fukuoka Dome

            I arrived at Fukuoka Seaside Park and was thoroughly disappointed. I should have known better, and been less naive. It was a city on the ocean so I expected some kind of beach. What I found were lots of ports and harbors. There was some sand between them but the “no swimming” sign took away from the fun. The cool thing about the park was that Fukuoka tower was nearby. It is the tallest seaside tower in Japan. Also nearby is the Fukuoka Dome. It is Japan’s first baseball stadium with a retractable roof. The roof is an orange-red color. When the sun shines on it, it looks like fire.

Canal City Shopping Area

How NOT to use a Western Toilet

            Next I took a bus to Tenjin, which is a shopping area. It is the biggest commercial shopping district in western Japan. Then I went to Canal City, which is also a shopping area. Lots of looking, observing, and people watching was done but I didn’t end up buying anything. I ended the night by getting Ramen. This Ramen was special because it was Hakata Ramen. Hakata is a big district in Fukuoka. The reason the Ramen was special was because instead of having the Ramen in a clear broth it comes in a pork broth. It was pretty good. I had a big egg and some strips of pork in mine.

            Since I’ve been in Japan, when it hasn’t been rainy it has been cloudy. The humidity sits on your skin. You can feel it weighing you down when you breathe. The weather forecast surprised me by saying it would be a clear sunny day. I knew I had to make the most of it. I put on my swimsuit and took a ferry to Shikanoshima Island. There weren’t many people on the ferry and most of them were in business suits. I was the only one beached out.

Ferry to Shikanoshima Island

            I arrived at the island and walked to the beach nearby. It was roped off and closed. I decided to start walking the island to find another beach. I looked ridiculous in my flip-flops and flowing dress with my swimsuit straps showing. The Island was very empty but eventually I ran into some construction workers. I asked them were the beach was and they showed me a map. The beach was on the opposite side of the island. I was supposed to take a bus to get there.

            I walked back to where I began and waited at the bus stop. I waited and waited but no one came. After half an hour a bus stopped and I happily got on. I made myself comfy in my seat and got ready for the ride. The bus went two stops and then said it was the end of the line. I was confused. I was only two blocks away from where I started.

            I didn’t know what to do so I started walking. The walk was gorgeous. The road I was on was right by the sea. Eventually I got tired. I came upon a bus stop and figured a bus must come eventually. I really wish I was able to read the bus maps. I waited for over an hour. A taxi passed me twice. The first time he passed I told him I didn’t need a ride. The second time he passed I gave in. He laughed at me a bit, I couldn’t blame him.

Finally at the beach

            Finally I was at the beach! Not many people were there. I think it is off-season; also school has recently started here. Either way, I was ecstatic. I ran through the waves, relaxed and read a book, and had a really great day. People at a resort nearby helped me get on the right bus back to the ferry when my day was done.

            Once arriving at the Fukuoka ferry harbor I was unsure of which bus to get on to get me back to Hakata station (my hostel was nearby the station). It seemed like there was only one bus so I got on. It drove and drove for the longest time. I was starting to get nervous but we picked up people at a bus stop that said “Hakata Station.” I thought I would be fine. Then I realized that we were leaving Hakata.

            Miles away from where I was supposed to be, in the dark of night, I got off my bus. I knew it wasn’t going the right way. I was terribly lost. I started walking back and stopped at a convenience store to ask for directions. I was no longer in Hakata, I was in Hanahata. I asked the girl at the counter for directions. She grabbed her colleague and they both tried to figure out how to get me back. They were both younger than me. I stood there for twenty minutes while they talked back and forth. I was pretty sure they had no idea what to do with me. I tried to tell them that it was ok and that I was thankful that they tried. The girl ran into the backroom so I grabbed my map and headed out into the night.

            I was about a block away when I heard someone behind me. The girl from the convenience store had changed into her street clothes and was running after me. She beckoned me to follow her. We walked in what I thought was the wrong direction. It made me nervous. I didn’t know if she was bringing me home or what she was doing with me. She made a phone call to someone and kept saying “Hakata Station.”

            She brought me to a bus stop and waited with me. The first two buses that passed she loudly proclaimed, “No!” and put her hand in front of me. During this time we tried to talk. She was 17 years old and her name was Dikikko. Eventually my bus came. She told the bus driver a few things and then had me get on. I was so thankful for her kindness. After a super long bus ride I was back in my hostel, safe and sound.

            Time to leave Fukuoka and their city buses. Next stop Tokyo.

Hiroshima: City of Memories

            I wasn’t too confident in the choice of my next destination. I knew Hiroshima was where we dropped the Atomic Bomb at the end of WWII so I thought it would be important to visit. I didn’t know if I would need as much time as I scheduled there. I was worried that I was going to get bored. I was so wrong. I made so many great memories in this city. I loved my time here.

            I was staying in a J-Hoppers hostel, which is the same brand as the hostel I stayed at in Kyoto. I love everything about J-hoppers. They are always so clean, have the friendliest staff, and are always located in good places in the city.

            Hiroshima is a relatively small city compared to Osaka and Tokyo. The best way to get around is to take a tram. It was a fun experience and easily got me to the hostel. After unpacking I had some energy in me so I decided to go explore. A few blocks away from the hostel was the site where the bomb was dropped.

Peace Memorial Park

            Located at ground zero is Peace Memorial Park. The park is very well designed and huge. Throughout the park are different monuments honoring different people and advocating peace. I went inside the National Peace Memorial Hall. It was quiet and I was one of the very few inside. As you walked down a spiral walkway the walls got higher. It made you feel more and more small. At the bottom was a circular room. As you turned around you could see a panorama of all the buildings that were in the area before the bomb dropped.

Upstairs they had a book of stories about the aftermath of the bomb. I spent a lot of time reading about a school that was turned into an orphanage. They had accounts of children coming and not having clothes or food. Sometimes parents would show up to claim a child, but most were dead. They went to the neighborhoods of the children and they would find their parents’ bones in the remains of their house. The people that ran the school needed to scrounge for food. Most children were malnutritioned.

By the A-Bomb Dome

            Visiting and learning more about the effect of the bomb was a sad, but good experience. It was a moment for me to reflect on the value of life. After the bomb hit the area was flattened and became nothing; today the city is vibrant and so alive. I think this says something about the people. Their ability to rebuild shows hope. The last thing I did at the park was visit the A-bomb Dome. This building was located right by ground zero. Although much of the building was ruined, it remained standing.

The day really touched me emotionally. I decided to unwind by going to the hostel lounge to work on my blog post about Osaka. I didn’t get very far when a group of guys came down to the lounge. They were having a few drinks and wanted to play cards. I had my deck of cards in my purse so I offered it to them on the terms that I would be allowed to play as well.

The guys were great. They were from different parts of the world and had met along the way. They were from New Zealand, Scotland, Australia, and a few places in the U.S. Some were traveling because they just finished their undergraduates, others were traveling on vacation.

We were starting to get loud so we decided to go out and find a bar. The only problem was that it was a Sunday. We eventually found a place but didn’t stay long. The group was hilarious and accepting. By the end of the night they had nicknamed me Sarah Palin because of the way I talked.

When we arrived back to the hostel we decided to go to the roof. We listened to music and talked. I learned so much about these people and had a really great time. We were forced to go to bed when the owner of the hostel came upstairs and told us we weren’t supposed to be on the roof at this hour. Luckily he wasn’t too upset.

Itsukushima Shrine

Deer Everywhere!

The next day I took a ferry to Miyajima Island. The Island is a World Heritage site that is especially known for Itsukushima Shrine. It is known as the “floating shrine” because when the tide is high the ocean surrounds it. When the tide is low you are able to walk under the shrine and get good luck. I was able to see the shrine when the water was high and walk under it when it was low. The city is also known for the tame deer. Walking around the city are all sorts of little deer that aren't afraid of people.

The trail up Mt Misen

On the island there is Mt. Misen, the sacred mountain. It is the tallest mountain on the island and gods are believed to reside there. To get to the top of the mountain you are able to ride a ropeway. Due to the fact that they were building an observatory on top of the mountain, the ropeway was closed. The only way to get to the top was to climb. I took the trail and was surprised at what I found. The rock steps were uneven and tall. As you climbed you passed small shrines. The trail cut through the primeval forest that has been kept intact to its fullest. A waterfall runs next to the path. It is beautiful and serene. As you climb you are left with your thought and with the peaceful nature surrounding you.

Whew! At the top

It was a gorgeous day with the sun out which made climbing even better. I didn’t realize how long it would take to get to the top. I sweat like crazy. Once I made it to the top it was so worth it. The peak was made of rock and you could look out across the island. On my trip there were moments when I would round a corner and see the scenery and let out a gasp because it was so beautiful. When I made it to the top I celebrated and threw my fist into the air as though I was in some cheesy movie. I wanted to yell, “I did it! I climbed the mountain!” I felt so accomplished. It was one of the greatest moments I have had in Japan so far.

Kintai Bridge

The next day I woke up and found that my friends had left. This put me in a sad mood all day. I took the train to Iwakuni city nearby. This area is famous for the Kintai Bridge. It is made out of five arches. On the other side of the bridge is Kikko Park. The area used to belong to the Kikkawa Clan. Today park is full of gardens. There is a garden of Irises and a garden of Peonies. You can ride a ropeway to the top of a hill there where Ikakuni Castle is located. In the park there is also a shrine, museum, and rare white snakes. It was a relaxing trip.

Hiroshima and the surrounding area was just what I needed after Osaka. I was able to relax, be thoughtful, be a little zen, and meet some great people. I will always have such wonderful memories of my time here. 

Osaka: big city life

            Leaving Kyoto was a gloomy experience. The rainy weather only added to the melancholy. After a short train ride Osaka came into view. The city looked looming and dark even though it was midday. This was so different from my cute little Kyoto.

Arriving at the station

            Overwhelmed by my surroundings, I decided to take a taxi. It was one expensive cab but I don’t regret taking it. The driver looked at the address and then looked worried. As he started driving he tried to make small talk but he only knew a tiny amount of English. We arrived at the hostel and as I was paying him he looked right at me and said, “Don’t go out at night!” I didn’t understand him at first but as he helped me with my bags he kept repeating the phrase.

            Later I took a walk around the neighborhood and I understood why the taxi driver had warned me. Japanese neighborhoods are usually very clean. This one had trash lying around and a few stray cats. I walked by an overpass and was surprised to see about 50 homeless men under it. The people I walked past on the street were usually older men that smelled like beer or sweat. There were a few younger guys that I would pass on the street, but they had dyed hair (which is abnormal in Japanese society) and just looked menacing in general.

Preschoolers on a field trip

Crab

            My hostel was right by a metro station so I spent most my time in other neighborhoods. I started my day by heading to Kaiyukan, which is the Osaka Aquarium. I was surprised as I was walking in to be surrounded by a bunch of 5 year-olds in matching uniforms and yellow hats. They were preschoolers on a field trip, and they were a rowdy bunch. They ran around in circles, knocked on the glass, and teased each other. The aquarium was really cool though, and I was able to see many of the same fish that I saw when I was snorkeling. I also arrived right during the dolphins’ feeding time. I got to watch them do tricks to get food.

At Osaka Castle

            After the aquarium I headed to Osaka Castle. These castle grounds were huge. I liked them because the area was full of trees and had good paths to walk. The castle was impressive, very tall. The roofs were shaded a light teal blue color that went well with the gold accents. The castle was built for the permanent rule of Japan but in 1615 after the Summer War the control was taken. In 1931 the castle was used by the army; and in World War II the castle was damaged. It is now restored and the inside of the castle has been turned into a museum.

Umeda Sky Building

On my way up

            The next stop on my very busy trip was the Umeda Sky Building. It was built in 1993 and is two skyscrapers that are connected in the middle. This building is also called the floating garden. The part that connects the two buildings functions as an observatory. This was a beautiful place to relax and look over the city. I found a comfy spot and spent over two hours looking, thinking, and writing. It was calming.

            The night was young and I was not ready to head back to the hostel. As a solo traveler it can get lonely sometimes. I wanted to meet people but I wanted to do it in a safe environment. The hostel I stayed at in Kyoto had another of the same brand in Osaka. They were hosting an international night. It was a chance for people to meet at the hostel, have a drink, and get to know one another. I stopped by for an hour and was able to talk to some great people from around the world.

            The next day I was definitely starting to lose my steam. The big city was getting to me. I tried to plan a less busy and more relaxing day. I started by going to the Shitennoji Temple. It is the oldest temple in Japan. I was surprised to find a flea market there. They were selling all sorts of interesting stuff and I even bought some really good dried fruit.

Flea market at the Shitennoji Temple

The stable pagoda

            While viewing the temple I ran into an old man. He was 65 or 70 years old and he knew English. He talked to me for a long time about the temple. He told me that when there was an earthquake the pagoda stayed standing because of the flexibility of the pole in the center. When the man was done telling me all about the area he asked if he could have a picture with me. His wife laughed and took one. It was cute.

            To further my relaxing day I decided to go to an Onsen. An Onsen is a Japanese public bath. This one was called SpaWorld. You paid a flat fee to get in and then if you wanted a service (like a massage, facial, etc) you would add onto it. There was a floor for females and a floor for men. The baths were all sorts of different themes. The current theme for the women was Asia. The first bath you saw when you walked in was the Islam bath. It was modeled to look like the inside courtyard of a mosque. They also had a Persia bath room that included a footbath. The baths were different sizes and temperatures. They also had a “doctor spa”. These were three different baths infused with different elements. One had a highly concentrated amount of oxygen, which eases fatigue. The next was carbonic which is good for blood flow, and the last one had hydrogen, which is good for your skin.

            I like Onsens a lot. You go in the public bath naked which at first is a little intimidating. You try to awkwardly cover yourself up. Eventually you realize that no one cares about what you look like. They are all enjoying the space and being confident about their bodies. It makes you realize that no matter the shape or size, everyone is beautiful.

            In all, I’m glad I visited Osaka, but in the end I was very ready to move on to the next city. I’m not sure if the big city life is for me. I enjoyed the city a lot more than I thought I would.